Pizz'e ffo'je belongs to Abruzzo as a listed traditional gastronomic preparation, the sort of plate that starts with what the cupboard already holds. Maize bread is broken into cooked greens until the crumbs soften and take on the pot’s juices, then the mixture is seasoned with dried peppers and sardines. Heat from the peppers and a briny edge from the fish meet the sweetness of the greens; the bread is not a garnish but the body of the dish.

There is a small craft in the breaking itself: pieces of maize bread large enough to keep some chew, small enough to drink the greens. Dried peppers wake the bowl with colour and a slow burn; sardines bring salt and oil that cling to every leaf. Nothing here asks for spectacle. It is a warm, mixed plate meant to be eaten when the greens are still glossy and the bread has just given way.