Appetite for Caciocavallo del Formicoso* begins with patience at the vat. The vessel is set on a slant so whey can leave from the bottom, and the last drops are given time to drain rather than being rushed away. That small tilt is not theatre: it is how the mass is asked to shed liquid before it is expected to keep a shape.

Once the whey has gone, the forms rest in a tank so they can firm. After a few hours of that settling, they move into brine for a further twenty-four hours. Salt and stillness do the next work, tightening the surface and giving the cheese the density it will need later.

At last the caciocavalli are moved into a temperature-controlled aging room. There the craft turns from handling to waiting: cool, steady air instead of brine, and time instead of the tilted vat. What arrives on the table is the result of those three gestures in sequence, not of haste.