Say Bologna and a certain pale-rose sausage answers back. In one culinary telling, the city is bound to mortadella as surely as Emilia is bound to a whole family of cured pork, each shape and place keeping its own character. That is the appetite of the thing: not a generic lunchmeat, but a named slice from a landscape that sorts its salumi by where they come from and how they are formed.
The European Union now registers Mortadella Bologna as an Italian protected geographical indication, a legal frame that keeps the name tied to a defined product rather than a loose style. The current record also names the Consorzio Italiano Tutela Mortadella Bologna as the recognised producer group: the body that stands behind that protected name. For the table, the point is simpler: look for the protected name that carries Bologna in its title.