Preboggion is not one plant but a gathered handful of wild greens. Beet leaves may share the bunch with borage, dandelion and mint, a slightly bitter, aromatic mix that smells of hillside and kitchen at once. That loose identity is the point: cooks work with whatever the season offers, then treat the whole as a single, savoury ingredient rather than a list of separate herbs.

The same mix is what fills pansôti, those plump Ligurian parcels whose stuffing needs greens with bite and perfume. It also turns up in omelettes and in soups, so one forage can move from pasta filling to skillet to bowl without changing its character. Knowing that path is enough to keep looking: next, follow pansôti itself, one of the dishes this mixture supplies.